Time-Lapse: Getting Started

Basic Principles

Time-lapse is typically shot using still image cameras, most frequently DSLRs.  Individual frames (still photographs) are captured at set intervals thorough the shoot.  At the end of the shoot, these individual frames are compiled at a high frame rate into a video file.  When the frames are replayed this quickly (typically around 24-50 frames per second), they have a “flick book effect” and show as if time is moving much faster than in real life.

Getting Started

All you need to get started is a DSLR, and an intervalometer.  An intervalometer is a device which plugs into the camera and causes it to take shots at a set interval.  The intervalometers we supply also have some other functions as well.

Planning the Shoot

The first step is to plan how long you want your final video clip to be.  From this you can calculate how many frames you will need to capture by multiplying the frame rate by the number of seconds you want the clip to last.  Next you must work out the length of time you will be shooting for, and divide this by the number of frames to get a value for the interval.

To make this simpler, please use the calcualtor below.

For standard PAL video use 25fps, for NTSC use 24fps (either is suitiable for most online video websites e.g. youtube) For more information on frame rate standards, please visit this useful website.

Note: No standard intervalometer will provide interval settings of increments of less than 1 second. You will need to round this value to the nearest second, then either extend your clip slightly or reduce shooting time.

Camera Settings

When starting out, it is advisable to lock as many camera settings as possible, so as there is no variation between frames when compiled back together. This means putting the camera in full manual mode, with white balance set (not left on auto), and autofocus off.

The easiest shoot to start with is one with reasonably unchanging light conditions. (e.g. indoors or during mid-day). Transitions from day to night are very difficult to capture well as this involves changing settings so as all frames are correctly exposed. Although this could be achieved by leaving the camera on an automatic or semi-automatic mode such as AV, the camera will meter for each frame without any adjustment for the frames either side of it. In practice this will create a large amount of flickers in the final video. Handling day to night transitions is coved in more detail under the advanced tips section.

Ensure your camera is set up securely on a tripod.  Any movement of the camera during the shoot will ruin the final video.

Depending on the final output of the video, you may be able to reduce the resolution of the images.  Switching to medium or small resolution can make processing time quicker in the video production stage, and take up less space on the camera’s memory card.

Camera Settings

At the end of the shoot, the frames need to be compiled into a video file; this can be done using a wide range of software.  Please see the software & post processing section for more details.

Article by Dave Anderson